Spaghetti-House_Nino-ManfrediA Roma, si sa, la pastasciutta è il “primo” per antonomasia. Sotto i denti di Alberto Sordi, Aldo Fabrizi e Nino Manfredi, ha posato in molti ed indimenticati film su questa città e i suoi personaggi.
Pastasciutta vuol dire Trastevere, Testaccio, la Garbatella, rioni di una romanità che gronda olio e sugo.

Le abitudini mangerecce dei capitolini cambiano e ridisegnano la mappa delle trattorie che, se ancora esistono, sono sempre più affiancate da offerte alimentari multietniche. Basta fare una passeggiata papalina da San Giovanni a Santa Maria Maggiore per attraversare le tavole dei 5 continenti, compresse in meno di un chilometro.

Eppure, in questo cangiante pot-pourri gastronomico, il piatto di pasta riveste ancora il ruolo di variabile indipendente rispetto alle correnti culinarie che di volta in volta prendono il potere sulle nostre tavole. Dallo street-food al pasto gluten-free, dal fast-food alla cucina vegetale, romani, romanisti, laziali e turisti subiscono indistintamente il fascino immutato dello spaghetto al dente che mette tutti d’accordo.

L’appeal nostalgico della pastasciutta si concentra soprattutto nella figura dell’indefesso consumatore del carboidrato più famoso al mondo: il “pastasciuttaro” appunto. Il termine gergale si riferisce al cercatore del sapore genuino del grano, ed alla naturale congiunzione di esso con le “salse” tradizionali della cucina romana: carbonara, amatriciana, cacio e pepe, “gricia”, “pajata”, etc.

Alberto-Sordi_mangia-pastaIl pastasciuttaro non arretra di fronte alla cucina globale; al contrario, intende risalire all’interpretazione filologica del suo nutrimento-feticcio, dando origine a vere dissertazioni sull’opportunità di “usare pasta lunga o pasta corta”, “aglio oppure cipolla nel soffritto” – “ci va il parmigiano o il pecorino?”, ed altrettanti dilemmi, sorti con scuole di pensiero e di pratica ai fornelli, che hanno alimentato fino ad oggi la mitologia della pastasciutta a Roma.

L’identità carmica del pastasciuttaro, seppur mimetizzato tra i commensali seduti al vostro tavolo, si svela presto dall’assenza di dubbio di fronte all’amletica dicotomia tra pasta e pizza. Tant’è che, a differenza di ogni comune mortale inibito dall’inequivocabile insegna “Pizzeria”, chiede comunque pasta. Anzi, è proprio in queste circostanze, in cui la tentazione di cedere al carboidrato gemello (pizza o calzone o focaccia che sia) ne insidia l’etica maccheronica, che egli ritrova fede nella proverbiale forchettata.

Pasta rappresenta per lui ciò che “Quell’oscuro oggetto del desiderio” è per Buñuel; da primordiale nutrimento di sopravvivenza: spaghetti, maccheroni, pennette, tagliatelle, fusilli, diventano il deus ex machina in grado di togliere il pastasciuttaro dall’impaccio del menù moderno. Non è per le copertine patinate, è persona di panza e presenza, incide prepotentemente sul Pil della nazione consumando senza moderazione il suo materiale nutritivo basilare: “Maccherone tu m’hai provocato ed io te distruggo!!!” recitava Alberto Sordi nell’Italia post-bellica del 1954.

https://youtu.be/1Y473QZUjto

Oggi, sono più rari i pastasciuttari veraci, si nasconde un po’ questa libido fantozziana, segregata tra il carrello della spesa e la dispensa, riservandone i benefici ad una sfera individuale. Le membra si distendono, le rughe sulla fronte svaniscono, il corpo riprende vigore e la mente torna a macinare pensieri positivi, peperoncino e aglio accendono la fantasia; ciò che più conta, nella pastasciutta come nella vita, non è tanto la purezza degli ingredienti quanto la possibilità di condividerne il sapore.La tipica spesa del "pastasciuttaro" al supermercato

Per chi ambisce ad un curriculum da pastasciuttaro, Roma presenta occasioni irripetibili; tra le innumerevoli cucine che continuano ad allevare generazioni appassionate di pasta vi sono certamente “Zi Umberto”, “Enzo”, “Paolo” e “Teo” a Trastevere, “il Grottino”, “Agustarello”, “Angelina”, “Lo Scopettaro” a Testaccio, “il Timoniere”, “gli scalini di Marisa”, “la nuova cantinetta” a Garbatella , “Pastasciutta” al centro in via delle grazie è un pasta all’uovo con possibilità di mangiare in loco…Buon appetito a tutti!

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Di Giorgio D'Anna

Giorgio D’Anna Nato a Roma nel 1983. Laureato in Storia presso la facoltà di Lettere dell’Università di Roma nel 2007 e in Scienze Politiche presso l’Università di Bologna nel 2009. Dopo una prima esperienza di lavoro alla Regione Lazio, vive tra Barcellona e Montreal. Rientrato a Roma nel 2011, inizia a lavorare presso l’aeroporto di Fiumicino, al contempo cura il catalogo librario di una azienda agricola specializzandosi sull’alimentazione naturale. Coltiva la passione per la scrittura e la ricerca sui temi socio-politici e storici. Collabora con la rivista Air Press e il Pontino. Consegue un Master in Politica e Relazioni Internazionali presso l’Università Lumsa di Roma nel 2015.

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