The “quinto quarto” is one of the most iconic expressions of Roman cuisine, deeply rooted in the history and popular tradition of the city. The term refers to all those parts of the animal that are not part of the noble cuts of meat (first, second, third, and fourth quarters) and that were considered less valuable. We are talking about offal, meaning internal organs such as liver, heart, spleen, lungs, tripe, and intestines.
In Milan, the equivalent term for the Roman quinto quarto is not as well established, but offal is still part of the Lombard culinary tradition. A Milanese dish that falls into this category is “el büsc e i nervitt”.
The concept of the quinto quarto refers to the less prized parts of animals used in cooking, especially internal organs and other offal. In Rome, the quinto quarto is a symbol of poor cuisine, celebrated in traditional dishes such as tripe, coda alla vaccinara, and pajata. These preparations arose from the need to use every part of the animal, blending creativity with flavor.
In Milan, a version of this concept is found in cassoeula, a winter dish that includes pork rind, feet, ears, and savoy cabbage. Here too, the tradition of reusing every part of the animal is deeply rooted, with the addition of typical Lombard ingredients such as pork ribs and luganega sausage.
Another dish that echoes the use of less prized parts is nervitt, prepared with the tendons from the knee and foot of veal, boiled and served cold in a salad with onions and parsley. In the Milanese dialect, it’s called el büsc, a term representing the belly, symbolizing a cuisine that, like Roman quinto quarto, wastes nothing.
A Bridge Between Rome and Milan
Although the term “quinto quarto” is deeply tied to Rome, the concept of using every part of the animal and avoiding waste is common across many Italian regions. Milan, with dishes like cassoeula and nervitt, follows this philosophy, albeit with regional differences. Both cities showcase how creativity can transform even the humblest ingredients into refined and symbolic dishes.
The Cuisine of Rome and Milan
In general, Milanese cuisine uses less offal compared to Roman cooking, but there are dishes that recall the use of less noble parts of the animal, even if there is no specific term like “quinto quarto” to define them.
This connection between Milan and Rome, between the quinto quarto and “el büsc”, demonstrates how Italian regional cuisines share a common tradition of respecting available resources, turning lesser cuts into genuine culinary masterpieces.
A Bit of History of the Quinto Quarto
The tradition of the quinto quarto has humble origins, dating back to a time when meat was a luxury reserved for the wealthy. In poorer families, especially among workers in the slaughterhouses of the Testaccio neighborhood, the less prized parts of animals—discarded by markets or reserved for the rich—became the primary available food. In these circumstances, Roman women demonstrated extraordinary creativity, inventing flavorful dishes from what they had on hand, turning the quinto quarto into a people’s delicacy.
The concept of cucina povera (poor cuisine)
The concept of cucina povera (poor cuisine) in Italy is the art of creating flavorful, nourishing dishes from humble ingredients, often those left behind by wealthier households. In Rome, this tradition is best represented by quinto quarto, referring to the “fifth quarter” of an animal—essentially the offal or less prestigious parts like the heart, lungs, liver, and intestines. Milan has its own version of cucina povera, showcased in dishes like nervitt and cassoeula, which, while different from the Roman style, share the same philosophy of resourcefulness and respect for ingredients.
Famous Roman Dishes of the Quinto Quarto (Rome)
Some of the most celebrated dishes made with the quinto quarto include:
- Coda alla Vaccinara: One of the best-known dishes made with oxtail, slow-cooked with tomato, celery, and aromatics. It’s a symbol of Roman cuisine.
- Trippa alla Romana: Tripe cooked with tomato sauce, Roman mint, and pecorino cheese, offering a rustic and bold flavor beloved in the capital.
- Animelle (Sweetbreads): A delicacy made from the thymus gland of calves, often served fried or battered, transforming a less prestigious part into a sought-after dish.
- Pajata: A typical and perhaps “strong” dish from Roman tradition, made from the small intestine of veal or beef, cooked with its natural content and served in a rich tomato sauce with pasta.
- Coratella con Carciofi: Lamb heart, liver, and lungs cooked with artichokes, a seasonal dish typical of Roman taverns.
Famous Milanese Dishes of Nervitt and Cassoeula (Milan
- Nervitt: Veal tendons boiled and served cold in a salad with onion and parsley. This simple and flavorful dish is loved in the summer months.
- Cassoeula: A winter dish using various parts of pork, such as rind, feet, ears, and ribs, slow-cooked with cabbage and other vegetables. This dish celebrates the concept of Lombard cucina povera, similar to Roman quinto quarto.
- El Büsc (Bone Marrow): Bone marrow, used in the famous risotto alla milanese, adds flavor and creaminess to one of the city’s most well-known dishes.
- Rostin Negàa: Veal chops cooked with butter, sage, and white wine, served with pancetta. Although not strictly offal, it celebrates the complete use of the animal.
Culture and Identity
The quinto quarto is more than just a selection of dishes—it represents a philosophy and lifestyle centered on the art of wasting nothing. In Roman cuisine, humble materials are transformed into a triumph of flavors, where nothing is thrown away and everything is valued. This spirit reflects the authentic soul of Rome: direct, candid, and deeply connected to its popular history.
Today, quinto quarto dishes are no longer considered poor but are part of the prestigious gastronomic tradition of the capital. More and more chefs are rediscovering and reintroducing them in their restaurants, proudly bringing this tradition into modern cuisine. Typical Roman restaurants and taverns, especially in historic neighborhoods like Testaccio and Trastevere, continue to serve these delicacies, keeping the quinto quarto culture alive.
Quinto Quarto Today
In recent years, the cuisine of the quinto quarto has experienced a resurgence in popularity. Offal, once considered a second-choice food, is now being rediscovered thanks to a renewed interest in traditional cuisine and sustainable eating. Many chefs use the quinto quarto not only to respect tradition but also to reduce waste and adopt an ethical approach to cooking.
Differences and Connections
While Rome’s quinto quarto cuisine is known for bold, earthy flavors stemming from its use of offal, Milan’s nervitt and cassoeula are more about subtlety and seasonal ingredients, particularly focusing on how to stretch the animal’s value through slow-cooked methods and salads. Both regions, however, exemplify the essence of cucina povera—transforming the least desirable parts into culinary masterpieces that tell the story of Italian resilience and creativity.
Conclusion
The quinto quarto is much more than a selection of dishes: it is a testament to the resilience and ingenuity of Roman cuisine, born from necessity and grown into a symbol of taste and tradition. Tasting these dishes means connecting with the authentic soul of Rome, discovering flavors that tell stories of a simple yet rich past, full of wisdom and culture.
Sources and References:
- “Cucina milanese: tradizioni meneghine a tavola” – Posti e Pasti
- “Ricette della tradizione romana” – Milanofree.it
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Igor W. Schiaroli is specialized in new media and technology. He has expertise in publishing and media sector. He is an independent journalist and a writer but primary a technologist and an economist too. He has passion and curiousity about science and travel.
He had major roles for Italian and International Media and Telecommunications companies.